What is bourbon?
Bourbon is distinctly American. The path to what we now call bourbon was a long one, that received its final designation must be made in America in 1964. To understand how it evolved, you can check out the brief history of bourbon or American whiskey.
What is bourbon?
It must be made in America. Yes, despite what you may have heard, bourbon can be made anywhere in the U.S.
The mashbill (grain recipe) must be at least 51% corn. The remaining percentage can be other grains, or a distiller can use 100% corn. Rye or wheat and barley are used mainly as secondary grains.
The whiskey must be aged in a new charred oak barrel. There is no length of time required. A distiller could pour it in a new charred oak barrel, wait a minute, and bottle it.
Bourbon can not be distilled higher than 160 proof. This is the proof when it comes off the still. For a reference point, vodka comes off at 195 proof or higher.
The entry proof (proof when it goes into the barrel) can not be higher than 125 proof.
Bourbon can not be bottled at less than 80 proof.
To be labeled as “Straight,” it must be aged at least two years.
If the bourbon is less than four years old, the distiller must put the age on the label.
Not all bourbon is the same.
The guidelines help establish quality and consistency. All bourbon must follow these guidelines, but they are far from being the same. The factors that determine a bourbon’s final flavor runs as long and complicated as its history. The type of grains, water, yeast, still, cuts, barrel, level of char, climate, location in rickhouse, age, proof, and so on affect how the bourbon tastes. There are books dedicated to the science and history of distilling that can take you deep into the subject. For now, I am going to focus on the mashbill to explain one reason bourbons taste different.
The mashbill.
The “recipe” of American whiskey. The ratio of grains that make a particular whiskey. You know bourbon has to be at least 51% corn, but what about the other 49%. The type and ratio of the secondary grains determine the bourbon classification. I typically break it down between a traditional bourbon, high rye bourbon, wheated bourbon, and 4-grain bourbon.
What I call standard or traditional bourbon.
The mashbill focuses on the corn with a low amount of rye and barley as the secondary grains. An example is Jim Beam’swhite label bourbon is 77% corn, 13% rye, and 10% malted barley. This category is usually 70% to 80% corn (with Jack Daniels and George Dickel being slightly higher) of the mashbill. The rye grain falls into the 8% to 18% (widely debated) range. Finally, malted barley arriving in the 5% to 15% range. This category includes brands like Jim Beam, Wild Turkey, Four Roses, and Woodford Reserve.
High rye bourbon.
While still maintaining the 51% corn, this category focuses on using a higher percentage of rye. For me, a bourbon that is 19% or more rye falls into this category. The higher rate of rye gives an extra dose of spice to the whiskey. An example mashbill is Bulleit Bourbon 68% corn, 28% rye, and 4% malted barley. Other brands include Basil Hayden, Old Grandad, Redemption High Rye, some Four Roses (depending on the recipe), and many craft distillers.
Wheated bourbon.
A category that people either love or hate. A wheated bourbon uses wheat and barley as the secondary grains instead of the traditional rye. For me, wheated bourbons can drink a bit sweeter with a mellow finish. The most popular wheated bourbon is Makers Mark (70% corn, 16% wheat, and 14% malted barley.) Other brands include Weller, Larceny, Old-Fitzgerald, Willett, and the ever-elusive Pappy Van Winkle.
4-Grain bourbon.
As you have probably guessed, this category includes bourbons that contain corn, rye, wheat, and malted barley. This is the smallest of the types. These bourbons can vary from sweeter like a wheated to a mellow spice flavor. Many that make up this category are craft distilleries. Brands that have a 4-grain bourbon include Hudson, Koval, LAWS, and Tahwahkaro.
Other bourbon mashbills.
In the world of whiskey, there are endless possibilities for mashbills. While many distilleries gravitate towards traditional bourbon mashbills, such as the ones listed above. Others are experimenting with a variety of grains with unique combinations of grains like oat, spelt, or quinoa. Some are using 100% corn and others only two grains. As long as it is at least 51% corn, the world of mashbills offers a playground for innovative distillers and adventurous whiskey lovers alike.
Hopefully, this gives you an idea of how changing the grains and ratios; distilleries can craft distinct flavors and profiles that cater to a wide range of palates. Whether it's a subtle variation on a tried-and-true recipe or a bold departure into uncharted territory, the plethora of mashbill choices ensures there is something to satisfy every whiskey enthusiast's taste. While they all follow the same guidelines to be called bourbon, they are vastly different. Not every distillery openly shares its mashbill, but now you can confidently browse the liquor store or restaurant shelves for your next pick. Until next time.
Cheers,
Jake
